There, they’re proving that suburbanites are as hungry for imaginative cooking as any city denizen. Think Vietnamese French onion soup with braised oxtail, cacio e pepe crossed with elote, and fried oyster larb gai. It’s very well worth the small vacation outside the house the District, even though You will need to wait around slightly lengthie

) A starter plate of melon and mango which has a pungent, spicy dipping sauce pays homage to ensaladang mangga. The custardy charred eggplant with a pile of acidy tomatoes laced with garlic and cilantro was encouraged by a dish Mr. Iocovozzi’s uncle cooked for him on the Filipino Seaside. And adobo is everywhere you go — inside the martinis, ba

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